Strap locks for True Historic

[moreles]

I dislike the way most straplocks move the strap significantly away from the body. It's an ugly look with a slightly more awkward feel. The clunkiness of Schallers, particularly, is ridiculous. They're certainly solid but look godawful, and are heavy to boot. Loxx work great and position the strap right on the guitar, but their teeny studs have been reported to fail, so forget it. I have found straplocks to be basically excessive and unnecessary. A decent strap and good button work fine, with a washer, Grolsch or otherwise, as insurance of you think you need it. The last thing I want is more hardware stuck on my guitar.

 

[Lkdog]

I have a Schaller straplock system on one of my guitars. Works fine.

But - Here is what I use on my 2014 R8.
Got them at hardware store for like 25 cents each. Rubber washers that you simply put on the strap buttons on top of your strap.
They work great.

 

[Petergrifindor]

Grolsch washers.

 

[Howard2k]

I use Shallers. I love the mechanism, but they wear fast. I play one guitar almost exclusively and the metal in the Schaller locks is soft enough that I need to replace them fairly often.

I might try the Dunlop next and see if they're a bit more hardy.

 

[uburoibob]

At the risk of starting a Friday night meltdown in the Historics & Reissues Forum...

I used to use Grolsh washers all the time, until in the middle of a gig, I looked down to my pedalboard and saw one laying on the floor. It was from my guitar.

That was the last night they ever went on any guitar of mine. I have since been using Schallers on every guitar I own.

Just deal with the screw issue, either with Mojoaxe (or equivalent) replacement screws, or just put toothpicks in the damn hole. It works fine. My R9 has them and it's been gigged regularly for 3 years constantly with no issues.

If you remove your strap regularly, you wil need to replace the Grolsh washers regularly. I bought a bag of 100 on eBay, then decided to just leave my strap on my guitar. No problems with them coming off.

Bob

 

[christopherJ]

I use Shallers. I love the mechanism, but they wear fast. I play one guitar almost exclusively and the metal in the Schaller locks is soft enough that I need to replace them fairly often.

I might try the Dunlop next and see if they're a bit more hardy.

Interesting. I have not had any issues with mine for years (and I play every day). I do make my own buttons out of aluminum though, however I do have a few guitars with the legit steel buttons that are in rotation. I notice no wear at all.

I can't imagine having to "replace them fairly often".

 

[christopherJ]

The worst part about Schallers was this: I was using four guitars, all of which I had installed Schallers on the same day, each with their own strap. I would use each guitar on regular rotation. One time while waiting backstage I happened to be fiddling around and noticed the mechanism on the strap was almost all the way loose.

Locktite would solve that problem. There is no way that I would trust such a thin nut with so few threads without it (in any application).

Cyanoacrylate glue or even nail polish would work in a pinch.

 

[jcsk8]

 

[Dag]

I use Schallers with matching screws.

 

[Howard2k]

Interesting. I have not had any issues with mine for years (and I play every day). I do make my own buttons out of aluminum though, however I do have a few guitars with the legit steel buttons that are in rotation. I notice no wear at all.

I can't imagine having to "replace them fairly often".

The piece on the strap lasts forever, it's the 'pin' on the guitar that wears out. If they sold those separately, or if they included a spare, that would be awesome. I had less than a year on my last set.

 

[stratburst]

It appears that the True Historic strap button screws are either proprietary or actual repros of the screws Gibson used in the 50's but are not made anymore 'cause I can't find them anywhere. They are a strange size 1-1/2 inch, #8 wood screw with 13 threads per inch.

Yea, I could use the #8-15 sheet metal screws that everyone uses with the Schallers but the threads don't align and the screw has different taper, it's fatter at the point. Once you use it the original screw set wont have much to grab on to unless you go the toothpick route, something I want to avoid. I'm still looking but for now I'm using the beer gaskets cautiously.

 

[companydamned]

The mojoaxe solution is by far the best if you're going schaller. He sells those #8/ 1-1/2 screws with the head diameter reduced to fit in the schaller button and the button with the hole enlarged to accept the wider screw. Your guitar won't know the difference and the stock button/screw can be put back problem free as it *is* a stock screw. The only diff is the screw may go in a touch further as it sinks inside the button with the schaller, but the screws aren't tapered so it won't make a difference to the hole except biting into a little bit of new wood if using the schaller button. Not a bad thing...

 

[Rango]

Oh I wish I'd have known about this before...

I've done toothpicks...
Dremel'd down screw heads...
Used Grolch Washers...

Mojoaxe is the right answer.

 

[dleake]

Do you guys use the big Mojoaxe screw in the smaller front button screw hole as well? I just got a set and that screw is way bigger and longer than the Gibson one. Almost seems long enough to enter the toggle switch cavity.

 

[Xrun Morzov]

I recommend Shaller + Mojoaxe replacement screws.
Dunlop have more mechanical issues with bearings.

 

[Mockbel]

I recommend Shaller + Mojoaxe replacement screws.

^This^

I have this setup on my R8

 

[dleake]

I recommend Shaller + Mojoaxe replacement screws.
Dunlop have more mechanical issues with bearings.

Did you use the Mojoaxe replacement screws for both strap buttons? Front and back?

 

[dleake]

^This^

I have this setup on my R8

Did you use the Mojoaxe replacement screws for both strap buttons? Front and back?

 

[Mr. Satchmo]

Do you guys use the big Mojoaxe screw in the smaller front button screw hole as well? I just got a set and that screw is way bigger and longer than the Gibson one. Almost seems long enough to enter the toggle switch cavity.

No just use the long one for the end,
The stock short one near the neck is fine

 

[C_Becker]

The piece on the strap lasts forever, it's the 'pin' on the guitar that wears out. If they sold those separately, or if they included a spare, that would be awesome. I had less than a year on my last set.

They do, at least here. About 3,50€ a piece.
And I always Loctite any Schaller that I put on a strap. Never had a problem.

What I like about the Schaller system is that the button slides into that u-profile, so even if they don't lock, the guitar is held by that.
And for some reason, I've always been able to use one of the screws that came either with the guitar or with the locks.